The 2019 Prosecco Masters was ‘all-the-fun-of-the-fair’! And there were times when it seemed that the we were on ‘a roller-coaster ride’ and others when we were on the ‘Magic Roundabout’. The ‘up-and-down’ was especially evident in the DOC wines priced at £10-20. Although there were a couple of exhilarating moments, many of the wines at these prices were pretty much as expected from Prosecco: easy-going and quaffable. But, at over £15, expectations were higher, and not all the wines delivered. Trying too hard to produce something serious, perhaps? Some of these wines might have benefitted from a little more reducing sugar to give more mouthfeel. Over £20 many of the DOC wines showed a sense of ‘Magic’, almost regardless of sweetness level.
DOCG wines, regardless of price, seemed to be a little more intriguing and more consistent in terms of quality. Some wines from Conegliano-Valdobbiadene and Asolo were really rather special with depth of flavour coupled with honeysuckle and herbal accents. The ‘Rive’ wines, from the 40 or so hamlets entitled to the designation, were also interesting, packed with purity of fruit, accented by minerality. At the expensive price points, many of the DOCG Prosecco wines showed marked vinous character, gastronomic in style.
The few Cartizze wines justified their high prices. These were superb and serious, with layers of aromas and flavours and lovely velvet-textured mousse across the palate.
Just like at a Fair, there was plenty to like, but a few disappointments, too.